Making a Traditional Japanese Toolbox

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Woodworker holding a partially assembled traditional Japanese wooden toolbox in workshop.

In our previous blog covering the introduction of Paulownia Wood, we had several inspirational examples by some very talented woodworkers.  In this follow-up blog, we will cover the “How-To” on building the Japanese-style Toolbox we showed you from that article with our product manager, George Snyder.  This ultra-feather weight wood is the key factor in using Paulownia for this build.  The box with shelves, weighs less than 8 lbs, making it an amazingly lightweight yet strong toolbox, despite loading it with various tools when completed.

Unfinished traditional Japanese wooden toolbox with hand plane and chisels on top in workshop.

Cut List:

  • All Wood Thickness is 3/4″
  • 1 Bottom: 30-1/2″ L x 13.25″ W
  • 1 Lid: 24-1/2″ L x 11-13/16″ W
  • 2 Sides: 30-1/2″ L x 9-1/4″ W
  • 2 Ends: 12″ L x 9-1/4″ W
  • 2 Handles: 12″ L x 2-1/2″ W
  • 2 Box Top End Battens: 13-1/2″ L x 4″ W
  • 2 Lid Batten (straight): 13-1/2″ L x 3″ W (1 batten will be cut/trimmed with a 5° on one side later)
  • 1 Angled Lid Batten Lock: 13-1/2″ L x 3″ W (cut/trimmed with a 5° on side later)
Wooden boards clamped together with bar clamps for glue-up in a workshop setting

The Tool box can be made to almost any size you desire.  George stated, “I searched a few web sites and settled on this size.  The #1 priority was the ability to store the saw in the box.  For all 4 sides, square up one 6″ and one 4″ board to cover all side and end lengths required by the Cut List.   I glued the boards using Titebond III, then clamped and let them set overnight.  Once the glue has cured, remove clamps and cut to length on the table saw per the Cut List.  Keep in mind the end pieces are inside the two sides, but the bottom is flush with the sides and ends.  The holes for the Cut Nails need to be predrilled.  The drill bit should be just a little smaller than the shank of the nail.  I drilled through the first board, but not the second.  The nails need to be oriented with the grain to avoid splitting the wood.  Pre-drill 3 holes per side end into both boards for 1-1/4″ L Cut Nails, apply the Titebond III Glue, nail the side boards to the end boards, check for square and apply the clamps.”

Hands assembling and clamping a wooden box corner with bar clamps in a workshop

Now that the end and side foundations are complete, George is ready to create the box bottom. This being the largest component of the box at 30-1/2″ L x 13.25″ W x 3/4″ thick, he cut 3 pieces of Paulownia to make up this size

Person using a cordless drill to drill holes in a clamped wooden panel in a workshop.
Applying glue to a joint on a wooden box side clamped with a bar clamp in a workshop
Hands fitting a wooden tenon into a mortise joint on light-colored hardwood in a workshop
Hands positioning nails to assemble a wooden toolbox side panel clamped with a red-handled F-clamp.

After glue-up and clamp, George jointed the ends, cut the length and width bottom to size and sanded it for attachment.

Hand hammering wooden dowels into a joint of a traditional Japanese toolbox side panel.
Woodworker assembling a large wooden box with cordless drill and clamps in workshop
Hands adjusting a metal square on a wooden toolbox corner in a workshop setting

Measuring for the 1-3/4″ cut nail placement followed by gluing and nailing completes the box shell.

Woodworker inspecting a partially assembled wooden toolbox with clamps and hammer on the workbench
Hands pointing to a row of evenly spaced dowel holes on a thin wooden panel in a workshop.
Hand feeding a hardwood board through a jointer with a push block in a woodworking shop.
Hand guiding plywood sheet through table saw with riving knife and fence setup
Woodworker feeding glued panel of joined boards into table saw with fence guide
Person feeding a wide wooden board into a thickness planer in a woodworking shop
Hands fitting a mitered corner joint on a smooth, unfinished wooden toolbox panel
Hands using a combination square and pencil to mark a straight line on a wood board edge
Hands using a cordless drill to drive a screw into a light wood panel in a workshop
Hand marking a joint line on a wooden box side panel with a red pencil in a workshop
Person hammering nails into a large wooden box panel in a woodworking workshop

This tool box will need some handles to carry it’s future load of tools.  Per the Cut List, cut 2 handles, 12″ L x 2-1/2″ W, glue, pre-drilled for the Cut Nails, and clamp for both ends.

Hands fitting a sliding dovetail joint on a wooden toolbox side panel in a workshop
Applying wood glue to a wooden toolbox side panel before assembly in a workshop.
Clamps securing wooden joints on a traditional Japanese toolbox frame during assembly

The final step in the box assembly is to add 2 box battens (13-1/2″ L x 4″ W) on top at each end.  Although we recommend using clamps during glue-up and cut nails as we have shown throughout this build, as a time saving tip, you can simply tack all boards in place after gluing as shown.

The lid is made from gluing up two 6″ wide Paulownia boards with a finished cut size of 24-1/2″ L x 11-13/16″ W.  Two additional battens and a lock batten are required for the lid configuration.  Both lid battens need to be 13-1/2″ L x 3″ W.  Measure 1″ from end of lid as shown.  Both lid battens should have a 3/4″ overhang per side.  Glue, clamp and cut nail into place.

Unfinished traditional Japanese wooden toolbox with sliding lid in workshop setting
Hand using a Bostitch pneumatic nailer to fasten wooden boards in a workshop.
Using a marking gauge to scribe a line on a wooden board edge for joinery layout
Bar clamps with red handles securing wooden boards together on a workbench in a workshop.

Using the Micro Jig Microdial Tapering Jig, we cut a 5° taper on the lid batten and the corresponding lock batten.  The lid batten width now measures 2-3/8″ at the smaller end of the taper plus the 5° along the 13-1/2″ length, making the larger end approximately 2-15/16″ wide.  Place the lid batten 3-1/2″ in from the edge of the lid, measuring to the batten’s largest width end.  Again this tapered lid batten also has a 3/4″ overhang per side.  Glue and cut nail into place.

Using a yellow featherboard on a table saw to safely cut a wooden board for a toolbox project
Hand marking precise layout lines on light-colored hardwood boards for joinery.
Hands positioning wooden pieces to assemble a traditional Japanese toolbox with interlocking joints
Hands holding and aligning two smooth, planed wooden boards in a workshop setting.
Hand marking a straight line on a wooden board using a marking gauge in a workshop
Hands holding a wooden side piece next to a flat board with a try square and pencil on a workbench.
Hands holding a steel ruler and marking a straight line on a light hardwood board.
Hand hammering small nails into a smooth wooden board in a workshop setting
Bar clamp securing light wood pieces on a workbench next to a wooden-handled hammer.

The lock batten is a free moving piece that wedges in between the tapered lid batten, and the box batten on one side.

Traditional Japanese wooden toolbox drawer containing a wooden mallet, kanna planes, sharpening stones, and a saw.

An optional design can include an interior component area to house those sharp Japanese Saws…

…and a 4 box shelving system to aid organization to your tool box.

Two unfinished wooden trays with mitered corners on a workbench against plywood background
Two unfinished plywood panels with rabbeted edges for assembling a traditional Japanese toolbox
Traditional Japanese wooden toolbox with compartments holding chisels, screwdrivers, and hand planes on a wood floor.

Shelf Cut List:

  • (Optional Design) 2 Shelf Supports: 28-3/4″ L x 1/2″ W
  • (Optional Design) 1 Hand Saw Slot Area (Bar): 28-3/4″ L x 2-3/8″ W
  • (Optional Design) 2 Hand Saw Slot Area (Ends): 1-1/2″ L x 2-3/8″ W
  • (Optional Design) 3 Box Shelves: 9-1/2″ L x 12″ W
  • (Optional Design) 1 Box Shelf: 17″ L x 12″ W
  • (Optional Design) Box Floor: Baltic Birch Plywood 3mm-1/8″ x 24″ x 30″; cut to size per shelf.

As a final addition, optional legs or box stand can be built.  A simple design using 2 basic supports and four legs can be shaped to any desired look.

Unfinished wooden parts for a traditional Japanese toolbox, including dovetail joints and handles.
Close-up of wooden joinery components for a traditional Japanese toolbox assembly.
Traditional Japanese wooden toolbox with dovetail joints and decorative wooden clock, bird, and candle holder on top

Leg/Foot Stand Support Cut List:

  • (Optional Design) 2 Stand Supports: 16-3/4″ L x 4″ H x 2-1/4″ W
  • (Optional Design) 4 Stand Support Legs: 9″ L x 4″ H x 2″ W

If desired, use Briwax to add a contrasting grain finish to your box and shelves.

In our previous blog on the introduction of Paulownia Wood, we included specifications and properties of the wood.  We have included them below for your reference once again.

  • Shrinkage is Radial: 2.7%, Tangential: 5.0%, Volumetric: 7.8%, T/R Ratio: 1.9.
  • Paulownia air dries in 30 to 60 days without cupping, warping, cracking or splitting.
  • Kiln drying takes 36 to 60 hours depending on dry kiln configuration, horsepower and dimension of lumber.
  • Paulownia is resistant to decay and rotting provided it is not in permanent contact with the ground.
  • Paulownia species vary in porosity according to variety but range from 75 to 88% in comparison with poplar 70 to 72%.
  • Fire resistance is a feature of all Paulownia, ignition temp 420 to 430 deg Celsius as compared to average hardwood at 220 to 225 deg Celsius.
  • Density of Paulownia species @10% moisture content ranges from 17.8 to 23.2 depending on variety and growing conditions.
  • Thermal conductivity of Paulownia is very low thus giving it excellent heat/cool insulation properties.
  • Chemical composition of Paulownia varieties: Hemicellulose Pentozan 22 to 25%, Cellulose 46 to 49%, Lignin 21 to 23%, Water 7 to 8%, Ash .50 to 1.1%, Fiber 58.5 to 60.1%.

Keep in mind the light weight of this wood for whatever applications you wish to use it for, and in keeping your tools very sharp for turning and carving applications.

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