Outdoor Occasional Table

Step 1 - To cut the tabletop pieces (A), plane both sides of a 16”-long piece of redwood to a thickness of 1”. Joint one edge and rip the wood to a 4-1/2" width. Crosscut the piece into six 8"-long pieces, as shown in the inset photo. 

Step 2 - Set the miter saw at a 30-degree angle. On the tabletop pieces, make a diagonal cut from corner to corner on an 8” side. Clamp a corner brace against the fence to secure the stock and keep your fingers out of the way. Stack the twelve cut pieces together to check the fit of the miter cuts, as shown in the inset. Trim, if necessary. 

Step 3 — Set the miter saw to a 15-degree angle. Remove an edge from the right-angle side of each tabletop piece. 

Step 4- Using waterproof glue (F), assemble and clamp six pieces to create half of the table- top. Use a web clamp against a sturdy piece of wood scrap to apply pressure and use waxed paper (G) to make sure the glue stays on the pieces. When the glue has cured, assemble the other half. Connect the two halves using glue, the web clamp, and other clamps as needed, as shown in the photo inset. 

Step 5 - Using a belt sander, sand the outside edges of the top. Sand the top and bottom portions to achieve a flat surface.

Step 6 - Install a 1/8" round-over bearing bit (H) in the router. Round the top and bottom edges of the tabletop. 

Step 7 - Cut the remaining redwood for the six table apron pieces (B). Set the miter at a 30-degree angle. Trim both ends of each apron piece to form a barrel stave apron, as shown in the photo inset. 

Step 8 - Using brads (I) and waterproof glue, assemble the six table apron pieces. Use scrap wood as a backing brace when nailing the ends together. Fill the nail holes and sand. 

Step 9 - Set the assembled and sanded apron on the underside of the tabletop. Referring to the bottom view drawing, mark the screw hole mounting locations. Plan on installing one screw in each segment of the tabletop. 

Step 10 - For each screw, countersink a 3%” hole 1 “-deep in the bottom edge of the apron, as shown in the photo inset. 

Step 11 - Apply waterproof glue to the edge of the apron that mates to the bottom of the table, center the apron on the table, and install twelve apron screws (J), one screw in each tabletop segment.

Step 12 - Cut and glue up enough redwood to form a 13” x 13’ x 13” triangle for the shelf (C). 

Step 13 - Cut the legs (D) to the dimensions given in the material list. Use a1/8" round-over bit (K) to rout the edges of the legs. 

Step 14 - Temporarily clamp the legs on the apron. Set the assembly on top of the shelf to ensure the proper placement of the legs on the shelf. 

Step 15 - When the legs fit against the apron and shelf, cut 1"-wide dados for the shelf. Two of the legs have a wedge cut; the remaining leg has a through cut. All dados start 3” up from the bottom of the legs. Set the table saw up with 1” stacked dado blades, 5/8"-high. The wedge dados are cut by laying a 30-degree angle wedge piece against the saw fence to achieve the proper angle (refer to the wedged dado detail). The wedge dado starts at the outside corner of each of the two legs and should come out midway through the thickness of the legs. Cut the dado 5/8"-deep on the remaining leg. 

Step 16 - Drill a 3/8" countersink hole, 1" -deep on the outside of each leg, across from where it mates with the shelf. Then drill two 3/8" countersink holes on the inside of the apron across from each leg location.

Step 17 - Attach the legs to the apron and shelf using waterproof glue (F) and the 1-1/2" leg screws (L). Use two screws per leg on the apron inside and one on each outside shelf location. Use enough clamps to be certain that the assembly stays square. 

Step 18 - Because of the short grain on the one edge of the shelf triangle, add a support block (E) on the bottom of the shelf using wood glue and a screw. 

Step 19 - Use pieces of 3/8" cherry doweling rod (M) to fill the countersunk holes on the outside legs. Glue, saw flush, and sand.