The Recipe Box – Part 3: Contrast Elements; Sub-Base & Dovetail Splines

Updated on: Published on:

This is Part 3 in the making of the Recipe Box, See Part 1 HERE; Part 2 HERE.  I will cover two contrast items in this blog; the sub-base and 12 dovetail splines (3 on each corner), given the idea by our Woodcraft Magazine Editor-In-Chief, Jim Harrold.  Jim built a dovetail spline jig for the Aug/Sept 2012 Issue #48 to build the Tile Top Box (below).  The other idea Jim mentioned was the Hafele Maroon Felt that he had used in the same project for the box floor and inside lid area.  I was unsure at this point in using the felt on the box floor since the recipe box would be mainly used in the kitchen.  With all the handling of the recipe cards during cooking/baking, this peel-and stick material might be difficult to clean and actually attract debris.  The material does add a clean, classy finished look and I admit leaning towards using it, but not for this reason!  I’ll cover the finishing touches in part 4 of the recipe box blogs!

In planning for a sub-base floor piece, 1/4″ thick to be made from maple, I cut the sub-base perimeter to match that of the box assembly, leaving a fraction over for planing and sanding, after the dovetail splines are added for an assembly inclusive final sanding.

Time to cut the dovetail splines using a Freud 1/2″ x 14 degree dovetail bit.  I recommend cutting a test piece first to make sure of the desired depth/aesthetics and to double check all router and table adjustments are tight.  I also clamped a square fence against the fixture for making sure my travel followed along the back of the router table fence.  I masked the corners of the box assembly for possible tear out, set up my desired depth and cut the center splines in each of the 4 box corners.

Woodworker assembling a small box with dovetail joints and contrasting green-painted sides on a workbench.
Two wooden recipe boxes with contrasting dovetail splines, one open showing interior and removable divided tray, the other
Delta brand thickness planer with a piece of light-colored wood being smoothed on the infeed table
Small open wooden box with contrasting light sub-base piece on a table saw surface
Wood block with contrasting wood species glued together on a table saw surface
Hand sanding a wooden box corner clamped on a table saw sled with a sanding block on top
Woodworker using a router table to shape a wooden board with blue tape in a workshop setting
Router table setup with plywood fence and hardwood board positioned for joinery work
Close-up of a dovetail spline joint on a hardwood box corner with blue painter's tape in a workshop.

After cutting the center spline, I setup the fixture and measured for an offset of 1-1/4″ from center to center of the left and right splines.  All I had to do is flip the box for a matched mirror cut for the remaining 8 dovetail slots.

Cutting the ebony was much easier.  First, using the same Freud 1/2″ x 14 degree dovetail router bit to cut the dovetail shape into the ebony,  I cut one long dovetail shape on both ends giving me more material height to work with on the router table.  Cutting the double-sided dovetail bars into 2 pieces will give me enough material for 12 small dovetail blocks.   I also cut a spare dovetail from scrap wood that fit the corner slots to test off of for each ebony block.

I cut the individual dovetail blocks on the bandsaw, leaving extra width material on the ebony, measured from the splines already cut into the box for sand-shaping using the Mirka Abranet Disc Assortment for an exact fit into the box cut dovetail splines.  The Abranet was very useful with the fine sawdust created by the ebony.  It worked right through the disc pores without clogging or binding up.  As you can see in the photo on the right, there were some gaps between the bubinga and ebony.  I used the ebony sawdust to fill these gaps with CA Glue, but we’ll just keep that secret between you and me!

Router table insert plate with wood shavings scattered around the fence and throat plate.
Walnut board with hand-cut dovetail joints secured in a router table jig for fitting or trimming.
Dovetail spline being cut on a router table with a red 1.0 ring guide plate.
Hand holding wooden push block guiding board through table saw blade in workshop setting
Unfinished wooden box with exposed dovetail joints and a dark wood spline resting on top
Close-up of a dovetail joint with contrasting dark wood splines partially inserted in a workshop setting
Close-up of a wooden box corner with contrasting dark dovetail splines in a workshop setting
Close-up of contrasting dark wood dovetail spline being glued into light wood box corner joint.
Woodworker using a palm sander on a small box with dovetail joints in a workshop.

Glue-up was next, followed by the ebony dovetails being bandsaw cut.  It was at this point I filled the gaps with ebony sawdust and CA glue, then sanded to a smooth finish, blending in with the bubinga box sides.  Working with the ebony was easy as it is a soft, yet dense wood.

I finished the sub-base using Transtint Black Dye to match the ebony dovetail spline additions.  You can mix the dye with water for economical use or alcohol for a fast drying application.  Why not make the sub-base from Gaboon Ebony, you might ask?  Simple, COST!… based on the fact that I would only be seeing a slim exterior perimeter once assembled!  I’ll cover why I regret that decision in the final recipe box blog, part 4!

 

Wooden box corner showing contrasting dark dovetail splines and recessed sub-base groove.
Wooden box with contrasting dovetail splines positioned on a bandsaw table in workshop
Disposable mixing bucket, black wood dye bottle, light wood panel, and dark wood box in workshop setting.
Walnut board being stained with TransTint dye on a workshop bench with blotches on paper towel underneath.
Small wooden box with contrasting dark dovetail splines clamped for glue drying on a workbench.
Open wooden recipe box showing contrasting dark dovetail splines on lighter wood sides and a recessed lid panel.

I thought I was finished with the sub-base, so I glued it with Titebond II and clamped it using Bessey Clamps to the box assembly.  Gluing it up at this point was a big inconvenience!  I’ll also cover why in…The Recipe Box – Part 4: Hinges, Assembly, Finish, Matching Pen & Final Touches!  Pictured below right is the Recipe Box to this point, placed together, unassembled.

In the Spirit of Excellence, auf Wiedersehen…Frank!

Back to blog