Tips & Tricks: Issue 36

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Diagram showing a hacksaw blade mounted on a wood strip with measurements and instructions for attaching under a wall

Shop jar opener

Like many woodworkers, I store finishes in appropriately sized jars to prevent them from skinning over in a partially empty can. The problem is that no matter how well I wipe the rim of the jar before closing it, the lid often sticks stubbornly shut afterward. To solve the problem, I designed this jar opener that mounts to the underside of a cabinet, allowing me to twist the jar with both hands while the jig holds the lid firmly in place. It works so well that I made a second one for the kitchen too.

To make the jig, use 2×6 lumber sized to fit under a standard-depth wall cabinet. Shorten a hacksaw blade to fit by scoring it with an abrasive wheel and snapping off the excess. Drill holes in the blade to mount it to the wood strip with #10 panhead screws, cantilevering the blade 1⁄8" off the edge.

—Bill Wells, Olympia, Washington

Diagram showing a wooden mounting board screwed to a wall with heavy-duty strapping holding pliers and clamps.

Strapping tool holders

My son, who is in the heavy equipment business, happened to have a few scraps of heavy-duty tie-down strapping lying around. I grabbed them, thinking they might come in handy for something, and they did. I found that they work great as tool holders for everything from screwdrivers and awls to pliers and wire cutters. I simply stapled the strapping to a board on the wall, bunching it up to create appropriately sized “pockets” to accommodate my tools. 

—Oneil Long, Mound City, Missouri

Diagram showing a handscrew clamp securing a curved workpiece to a bench with F-style clamps.

Handscrew vise

I work for a custom stair builder and often find myself working on small or odd shaped pieces such as handrail fittings. Unfortunately, I have a hard time holding them for sanding or shaping, and the boss won’t spring for a bench vise. To make do, I’ve found that I can substitute a large handscrew for the job. I clamp my workpiece in it, and then secure the handscrew to the bench with a couple of F-style clamps. The setup actually works pretty well. Even clamped down, the handscrew can still be adjusted enough to allow repositioning of the workpiece without a lot of hassle.

—Jonathan Wisher, Matthews, North Carolina

Diagram showing toggle clamp setup with auxiliary fence, spacer, and unifence for woodworking jig assembly

Unifence auxiliary facing

My tablesaw rip fence is a Unifence, popular with many Delta tablesaw owners. As with any rip fence, I sometimes need to attach an auxiliary wooden fence, or facing, to prevent damage to the aluminum fence when performing operations like sawing rabbets with a dado head. The typical approach with a fence like this is to drill holes through it for securing a facing with screws. Instead, I designed this setup to speed up the attachment.

I made the 3⁄4"-thick MDF facing wider than the height of the fence and screwed on a spacer for mounting three toggle clamps. Now it’s a matter of simply clamping the facing in place instead of messing with attachment screws.

—Dick Reese, Centerville, Ohio

Lignum vitae bandsaw blocks

Lignum vitae is a great wood for making your own bandsaw guide blocks. It’s dense and durable, and its resin is a natural lubricant. The wood can also be dressed easily when necessary to smooth worn faces. The only problem is that it’s not cheap, and I hate to have to buy big pieces of it since I don’t use it for much else. That dilemma was solved recently when I discovered that wooden pen turning blanks are available in lignum vitae. For less than $3, I bought a 3⁄4 × 3⁄4 × 6 1⁄4" pen blank, which is big enough to make several years’ worth of guides for my bandsaw.

—Bruce Robertson, Raleigh, North Carolina

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